Among top zippers,the most elegant & professional looking is recessed or sunken top zipper.
When we make purses we usually cut outer & inner lining pieces equal,but as you can see here the lining
is smaller.So first you prepare the outer pieces (don't join them yet)
Now you decide how much recessed should your zipper be??????
To that measurement add 2 " & cut 2 pieces from the outer fabric with width equal to width of the top of the outer piece.This is what I mean............we will be sewing the zippers & lining to these pieces which I am going to call STRAPS.
Keep one of the straps on the outer piece & measure remaining outer piece,that will be the size of your lining.So prepare your lining pieces accordingly with pockets .You can add a zippered pocket too!!!!!!!!.................OK yeah,I am crazy for zippers,but once you get the hang of doing it,you will be adding zippers to everything left ,right & center;).Here's how you can make a zippered pocket.
You don't want the zipper to be askew even slightly right???????...................so we mark the straps & the zip tape.
Mark A 1 cm away from one edge of the strap,C 1 cm from the other edge & B in the exact center of A & C.Repeat for the other piece too.I could not get the entire strap in one pic so I took 2 & have added them in 1 single pic ,so don't get confused seeing 2 B's.
It is much easier to sew with the entire zip tape at once!!!!!!
It is OK if the length of the zip is longer,you can always cut it during the final assembly.
So lets get back to next step:)
Now stack the strap ,zip tape & lining piece as follows.
Keep the lining piece right side up,the zip tape right side up & the strap wrong side up .Please ensure this sequence,now sew with 6mm seam allowance from A to C.
Probably its clearer to you as to what is shaping up!!
Now we have to attach the other piece of lining & the strap to this zip tape.Now you will realize why we marked those A,B,C.Stack up other lining piece as follows. Lining piece right side up,zip tape right side up & strap wrong side up.I have rolled up the lining we attached first for a better view.
Back stitch at point A & C so that your zip tab will not go flying away ,cut away the extra zip tape & open up the zipper at least a little more than halfway.
As you can see now we are ready with the lining too,so all that is left is the final assembly.
Take one of your outer pieces & fold the top inside as per your measurements,fold the strap too inside as per your measurements & pin them together.
As my bag is vinyl I could not add pins so that explains these pretty matching clothes pin;)
Join the lining pieces right side together & sew both the corners .Sew a few inches (enough to gusset) on both the bottom corners of the lining & leave at least 6" at the center of the bottom unsewn to turn the bag right side out.
This is why we left the zipper half open or else you are in for a lot of manoeuvrings to turn the bag!!!!!
Once you turn it right side out,sew the gap shut in lining & push it inside the bag.
So you are now ready to rock it with your brand new zippered purse!!
Please link it back here if you use it:)